1960 Chevy Apache Upgrades

[penningp]

OK Guys - need some info.

I want to upgrade to disc brakes on my 60. I guess there are two ways to go. One being to use the current setup and get a kit from one of the vendors and the other is to get an IFS from a scrap yard.

My question is simple - which is better/easier? I would kind of like to get a new IFS but don't really know which one to get - anybody done it on a 60??

Thanks,

Paul

[Dave Young]

To be perfectly honest, I'm not sure what IFS stands for, but I'll tell you what I'm doing on mine. I just took the entire K-member, which included the full suspension and disc brakes, from a '70's Chevy "donor". It'll bolt right up. You'll have to drill 4 holes for the sway bar, but otherwise, no modifications. You should be able to find one for around $150 or so. I got lucky. I got the front and rear suspension (incl. a 12 bolt 3.73 rear end), the disc brakes, the power brake booster, power steering pump, steering box and proportioning valve for $450.

If you want to drop the truck, however, I'd just get the kit with drop spindles.

[penningp]

I do want to drop the truck. If you think the kit is the easiest way I will go with that. Sorted wanted to get away from the torsion bar suspension though - not too famaliar with it - I guess it's ok though.

[penningp]

Dave,

Are you working on a 60?? oh and by the way IFS stands for independent front suspension.

Paul

[Dave Young]

No, mine's a '64, but a friend of mine has a '60. While the frames have their differences, the K-member should still bolt right up.

Dave

[riverracer]

Curious, what are the differences in the frames??..

[Dave Young]

My understanding is that from '60 to '62, they used a beefier frame. Check out the following thread posted by azdon.

sixty7ss.proboards101.com/index.cgi?board=general2&action=display&thread=74&page=1#110

[harryb]

I got a kit for my '65 from Classic Performance Parts which gave me a 2 1/2" drop in the front and 4" drop in the rear. Put disks up front and kept the drums in the back, and retained the 6-lug wheel setup. I still haven't driven it yet, but maybe later this year, so I can't give you results on the ride.

[riverracer]

Feb 27, 2008 9:13:34 GMT -7 Dave Young said:

My understanding is that from '60 to '62, they used a beefier frame. Check out the following thread posted by azdon.

sixty7ss.proboards101.com/index.cgi?board=general2&action=d
isplay&thread=74&page=1#110

That's right they are different, I thought it was only the torsion front that was different!..

[azdon]

At the time I did my 62 resto, there were only spindle and disc brake kits for 63 and newer. I don't believe you can swap a 63 or newer front suspension onto the older frame. Lowering the 60-62 front is a simple adjustment of the torsion bars, so if you are okay with front drums, you won't need a chassis swap! I added a split master cylinder and power booster to my drum system and I'm pleased with the stopping ability.

[Dave Young]

I may be wrong, but I was under the impression that the frames were the same, as far as the front suspension mounts were concerned. You would have to replace the entire K-member, however. Is that not the case?

[jcarpent3]

I'm building a 62 I want to use drop spindles and go 5-lug with disc brakes how many different bolt patterns are there for this setup? The spindles call for 73 and up disc brakes. And also if I have the 6-lug pattern on the rear welded up and re drilled for 5-lug what rear disc setup can be used ? Any help with these questions would be greatly appreciated .

[sleepysal]

hi guys first post. The 60-62 used torsion bar set ups. The frames are boxed and diffrent in width.
You can use a newer front cross member and as mentioned drill a few new holes. The nice thing by using a newer cross member is that the suspesion parts are cheep.
I am going to be using drop spindles on my 60 and chose to use thw 6 bolt rotors, you can get the standard 5 on 5 bolt patern too.
Now for the rear end, again the 60-62 rear end is diffrent then the 63-66. The axle seats are spaced diffrent, as is the trac bar . I plan on using one off of a 67 .
Yes you can have your rear axles welded and re drilled, but It might be advisable to get a newer rear end (more gear options) and with some axle relocater kits and a welder your set.
hope this helps

[Scooter3]

Ive been trying to formulate my plan on how to do a disc brake swap as well. Im going to 5 lug for more wheel choices and I will be using 2 1/2" drop spindles and heres what I have found out so far.
If you buy the just spindles they will require you to use disc brakes from a 71-87 Chevrolet truck. These trucks came with 5 lug front rotors with a 1 1/4" wide rotor and 4 3/4" Chevrolet bolt pattern.
Now the kit from CPP is $699 that has all the brake components/parts and spindles.
I went to O'Reilly just to check up on some prices on some of this stuff and heres what I found out. You can get the entire front disc brakes for about $200. That includes all the wheel bearings, hoses, calipurs, rotors, seals, castle nuts, all of it. I looked at the CPP and Early Classic calipurs and there wasnt any difference in them at all. They were both single piston GM calipurs.
Now if you add roughly $250 for spindles and $200 for brakes at any parts store, you have $450 bucks in the front brakes and a 2 1/2" drop. Thats alittle better then $600-$700

Also early classic makes 5 lug rear axles for I think 3 different types of GM rear ends including the 12 bolt. They are about $275 or so I think.

[sleepysal]

Scooter3 is right buying the brake parts at your local parts house will save you some cash.Unless you want to stay with the 6 lug , then you can buy the rotors from cpp, ecc or who ever you get your drop spindles from.One thing is that the stock chevy truck bolt patern is 5 on 5 ( the cars use 5 on 4 3/4 except some caprices or 96 SS) and as scooter mentiond there are two rotor thickens , stick with the 1 1/4 and make sure you get the right spindle too.
The 5 bolt axles will not work if you have the oe 60-62 rear end as they are diffrent in leanth