60-62 Hydraulic Clutch

[markeb01]

I've had enough questions about my clutch setup I thought it might be easier to link it to the tips section. When I originally built the truck I switched from the granny 4 speed to a 350/350 automatic. After I swapped in the 1975 front suspension/disc brakes I also installed the Master Power Brakes booster and firewall plate. About 5 years ago I switched back to a manual 4 speed and purchased the Master Power Brakes clutch cylinder bracket, which is set up to use a Tilton master cylinder on the driver side of the brake booster. A picture is shown at www.mpbrakes.com/products/product-detail.cfm?product_id=190. This arrangement put the clutch master cylinder directly in front of the clutch pedal arm. My experience was this design didn't function well, flexing during operation with the clutch cylinder bumping into the booster.

As a result, I pulled the new parts and engineered my own design. I fabricated a larger firewall plate for support and mounted a Wilwood 3/4" master cylinder directly in front of the original clutch operating arm, which is to the right of the brake pedal on the far end of the pivot shaft. The arm is connected to the master cylinder with a heim joint, steel spacers and a grade 8 bolt. I attached the bolt with double nuts to allow tension adjustment and lock in place.

I've included a couple of photos to clarify the installation and shape of the firewall plate. The Wilwood master cylinder can be seen here:

www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-1304/

For the slave cylinder I purchased a Novak kit designed to install a Chevy V8 in a Jeep. It's a little spendy but it works perfectly. If you are retaining the stock slave cylinder that would save a bunch of money.

(updated link: www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_hcrc.htm





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Regards, M.