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Post by Dave Young on Jan 23, 2008 2:51:38 GMT -7
I'm just starting the rebuild of a '64 Chevy Shortbox. I will be needing the following items.
- Left Fender
- Left Inner Fender
- Headlight Bezel (painted, not chrome)
- Rear Bumper (painted, not chrome)
- Front Suspension w/ Disc Brakes
- Power Brake Booster
- Rear Differential w/ Posi
- 200R4 Transmission
- Power Steering Box
If you can help, let me know ASAP. Thanks.
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azdon
Junior Member
Posts: 52
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Post by azdon on Jan 29, 2008 20:08:04 GMT -7
Okay Dave-
I don't have any of the items on you list, but I can tell you where on the stock stuff and tell you what fits for the custom items.
First: the fender and inner fender,headlight bezels, bumpers, etc are all available from LMC truck (and you should also contact them about advertizing on this site) In fact, about the only stock parts you can't get from them are the hood, fleetside bed sides, cabs, and chassis.
Next, the disc brake stuff....
This will require the purchase of disc spindles, which are custom produced to fit the ball-joints and rod ends of these trucks for a true bolt on (available stock ht. or lowered) Mc Gaughy's, Classic Performance Products, and Master Power Brakes all offer full kits that include spindles,rotors, calipers, bearings, seals and all hardware for under $600 (not including booster, master, or prop valve, although they sell these also)
Your truck should have a 12 bolt, so I'd suggest Jegs for a posi and suitable gears, and inspect/replace as needed axle bearings and seals. I personally would have rearend work done by a shop. Use car (freeway) ratio (3.00:1 or less) and you can use a 350 or 400 trans instead of overdrive.
Last, power steering.....
All chevrolet and GMC trucks from the beginning of integral P/S boxes used the same box through at least 1986 (and maybe later, I'll go outside and look on my dually) These boxes are NOT a direct bolt on. I got one with the correct pittman arm to fit the steering linkage on the 63 chassis, so they are out there- maybe the stock one will fit the shaft on the new box. The input shaft is also compatible with your stock stuff. You will have to carefully fit the box to the frame for correct pittman arm clearance and alignment AND have it poitioned so that all four new bolt holes are through the frame AND those holes need about half inch spacers welded to the frame, spacing the box away. Checker and Auto Zone sell rebuilts for $179, I think.
Oh yeah, links:
lmctruck.com
classicperform.com
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azdon
Junior Member
Posts: 52
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Post by azdon on Jan 29, 2008 20:13:12 GMT -7
Oh, and power steering will require a pump and compatible pulleys. Easiest way to accomplish this is to buy a donor engine with the complete accessory drive pulleys and brackets for all the belt-driven accesories that you'll have on the truck.
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Post by Dave Young on Jan 29, 2008 21:27:37 GMT -7
Wow... that's a lot of good information.  I just bought a complete front end (including disc brakes), brake booster, power steering pump, and steering box out of a 1979 Chevy 1/2 ton 2WD. My understanding is that the K-frame should bolt right up. I'm sure I'll have to do some modifications to the brake lines, but that shouldn't be too big of a deal. My plan was to go with a 3.73 posi rear end and a 200R4. I'd like to have the torque of the lower gear ratio, but still have a decent top speed with the overdrive. I'm familiar with LMC and Brothers. In fact, I've created a spreadsheet with all the parts I'm looking for, all the major suppliers, and their prices, so I know who to go to for the best prices. I'm definitely going to need help converting to p/s. Thankfully, tho, the guy I bought my frame from is a guru and is willing to help me out. Thanks again for the info. I look forward to being able to tap into that knowledge base. |
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azdon
Junior Member
Posts: 52
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Post by azdon on Jan 30, 2008 20:35:48 GMT -7
Okay.... the conversion disc-brake spindles are made for all of those brake parts you got with that truck. I think the suspension you got is too wide, though. Some say it fits and others say "too wide". Riverracer, the moderator at v-driveboat.com, wanted to put a 73-87 crossmember and suspension on his 65 and discovered that it was too wide, so he bought a 67-72 donor that he swears is the right width. The power steering box you got will fit as I previously stated. 3.73 and overdrive is a good choice and WILL provide you with lower low gears than a t-350 or 400 with a 3.0 or lower. I was just stating that if you are going to have rearend work anyway (for the posi) then spending the extra $$ for overdrive would be unnecessary.
I'll send Art over to this site to look around. He is a respected fabricator/ rigger in the v-drive world and very well connected regarding parts and services sourcing. He is also a neighbor of yours (he lives in Mesa).
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Post by Dave Young on Jan 30, 2008 20:47:29 GMT -7
I'll look into the width issue. If it's too wide, I need to back out of the deal now, so he can sell it to someone else.
I see what you mean about the gear ratio. I was planning on replacing the entire rear axle. I guess I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. I really appreciate the advice and look forward to meeting Art.
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azdon
Junior Member
Posts: 52
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Post by azdon on Jan 30, 2008 21:06:47 GMT -7
Dave-
I went back through the thread on v-driveboat.com regarding Art's project truck..... The thread is called "Hey AzDon, Whaddaya think?" and is posted in the "off topic discussion" forum. Page 6 and 7 of the thread answer this question... If you are getting the whole 79 truck at a good price, the parts it can give up to your project could be worth way in excess of a grand, even without using the actual suspension or steering linkage. My faves: Engine belt drives, P/s box and pump, A/c pump, brake booster, master and prop valve, foot-operated e-brake, tilt locking column, bench seat (comfy!) and FACTORY STABILIZER BAR! As mentioned, the calipers and rotors fit the conversion spindles. You were probably going to buy lowered spindles anyway, right?
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Post by riverracer on Jan 30, 2008 21:57:12 GMT -7
I'll look into the width issue. If it's too wide, I need to back out of the deal now, so he can sell it to someone else. I see what you mean about the gear ratio. I was planning on replacing the entire rear axle. I guess I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. I really appreciate the advice and look forward to meeting Art. Dave, it's not that big a deal if I recall it's only 3" total which is only 1 1/2" on each side, just that you'd have to space out the rear wheels or change the rear end out to match the front!.. If the price is right for a complete truck it would be worth it since you can use the power steering and steering column and all sorts of parts, then you could part the rest out and recover some bucks back to boot. I have a 72 that I'm using for mine!... |
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Post by Dave Young on Jan 30, 2008 22:53:02 GMT -7
Dave- I went back through the thread on v-driveboat.com regarding Art's project truck..... The thread is called "Hey AzDon, Whaddaya think?" and is posted in the "off topic discussion" forum. Page 6 and 7 of the thread answer this question... If you are getting the whole 79 truck at a good price, the parts it can give up to your project could be worth way in excess of a grand, even without using the actual suspension or steering linkage. My faves: Engine belt drives, P/s box and pump, A/c pump, brake booster, master and prop valve, foot-operated e-brake, tilt locking column, bench seat (comfy!) and FACTORY STABILIZER BAR! As mentioned, the calipers and rotors fit the conversion spindles. You were probably going to buy lowered spindles anyway, right? Actually, I haven't decided whether or not to use drop-spindles. I'm going for more of a stock look. I'm going to be using painted smoothies with the original white caps. I may lower the rear end a little to level it out, but probably not much more than that. Do I need to use conversion spindles? I thought I'd use those that came off the '79. |
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Post by Dave Young on Jan 30, 2008 22:55:01 GMT -7
Dave, it's not that big a deal if I recall it's only 3" total which is only 1 1/2" on each side, just that you'd have to space out the rear wheels or change the rear end out to match the front!.. If the price is right for a complete truck it would be worth it since you can use the power steering and steering column and all sorts of parts, then you could part the rest out and recover some bucks back to boot. I have a 72 that I'm using for mine!... The parts I'm getting are off of a '79, but unfortunately, the rear end is not available. I'm planning on replacing the rear-end. I guess I'll just have to make sure I get one that matches the width. Will the additional 1.5" on each side present a problem with fender clearance? |
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Post by riverracer on Jan 31, 2008 7:55:28 GMT -7
That's easy, 73 on up is all the same so there real easy to come by, the only thing it won't be a bolt in deal since they done away with the coil rear end!.. Another option is to buy/make spacers!.. Clearance shouldn't be a problem, if you have to you can play with wheel offsets!.. BTW, if you go this route you can get axle kits to change over to 5 lug pattern which is what I'll do with mine!..
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azdon
Junior Member
Posts: 52
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Post by azdon on Jan 31, 2008 19:37:26 GMT -7
The conversion spindles use all the 73-87 disc brake parts, but are drilled for the smaller ball joint and rod end tapers of the earlier trucks. I think the conversion spindles are shorter than the 73-87, because the stock earlier spindles are ( i think) not as tall. The conversion stuff is made to fit your truck without creating additional problems, and the stuff is inexpensive, clean, new, and returnable if it doesn't fit!
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Post by riverracer on Jan 31, 2008 20:49:22 GMT -7
Dave- I went back through the thread on v-driveboat.com regarding Art's project truck..... The thread is called "Hey AzDon, Whaddaya think?" and is posted in the "off topic discussion" forum. Page 6 and 7 of the thread answer this question... If you are getting the whole 79 truck at a good price, the parts it can give up to your project could be worth way in excess of a grand, even without using the actual suspension or steering linkage. My faves: Engine belt drives, P/s box and pump, A/c pump, brake booster, master and prop valve, foot-operated e-brake, tilt locking column, bench seat (comfy!) and FACTORY STABILIZER BAR! As mentioned, the calipers and rotors fit the conversion spindles. You were probably going to buy lowered spindles anyway, right? Actually, I haven't decided whether or not to use drop-spindles. I'm going for more of a stock look. I'm going to be using painted smoothies with the original white caps. I may lower the rear end a little to level it out, but probably not much more than that. Do I need to use conversion spindles? I thought I'd use those that came off the '79. The easiest is to just bolt the whole crossmember from the 79 in place of the 65, then you'll have all the right components, all you'll need to do is drill 4 holes on the frame for the sway bar and get a kit to mount the power steering box(from the 79) to the frame and it all bolts up!.. As I said it is wider but it will work, if you want to keep the factory width then just find a 71-72 with disc brakes and do the same procedure!... |
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Post by Dave Young on Feb 1, 2008 18:19:02 GMT -7
The easiest is to just bolt the whole crossmember from the 79 in place of the 65, then you'll have all the right components, all you'll need to do is drill 4 holes on the frame for the sway bar and get a kit to mount the power steering box(from the 79) to the frame and it all bolts up!.. As I said it is wider but it will work, if you want to keep the factory width then just find a 71-72 with disc brakes and do the same procedure!... I found a '71 front end with disc brakes for $125. I'm thinking of getting that one, too, and selling the '79 front end. Based on what you've told me, it makes more sense to go with the '71. What do you think? |
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Post by riverracer on Feb 3, 2008 8:49:07 GMT -7
That'll work, I'm using a 72 same thing. You get the whole truck with the power steering and stuff??, it's all bolt in all you need is the kit for the power steering box which lines it up in the original spot, just drill two holes no cutting and looks like factory!..
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I just bought a complete front end (including disc brakes), brake booster, power steering pump, and steering box out of a 1979 Chevy 1/2 ton 2WD. My understanding is that the K-frame should bolt right up. I'm sure I'll have to do some modifications to the brake lines, but that shouldn't be too big of a deal.