Simple Engine Swap?

[thinkgreen]

Im curious... I have a 1964 C-15 and it currently has a 283 in it. Whether its the original or not I dont know but according to the casting numbers my block was only produced between 1959-1966 so it very well could be the original. Unfortunately the engine has low oil pressure, poor compression and she likes to burn some oil. Instead of going through all of the hassle of rebuilding Im considering buying a new long-block and putting in but I cant decide if I should stick with the 283 or step up to a 327. My only concern is the placement of the blocks motor mounts. On my current motor the mounts sit really far forward on the block making the engine sit really close to the firewall so Im wondering if I was to order a 327 long-block to fit my trucks application if it will have the motor mounts in the same location as the current 283 so I don't have to go through all the hassle of lengthening and shortening all of my linkage and everything else. I pretty much want to be able to drop the motor in and bolt it up to my tranny (4 speed manual ((stock))) without a ton of other work. Im looking for simple and straight forward because I don't want to have my truck out of commission for a long period of time. Allot of people have told me that the 283 and 327 block are essentially the same (externally) and thats why I thought maybe go with the 327 over the 283. Anyway Im just looking for some validation I guess. Remember, I just want simple. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Dave Young]

You shouldn't have any problems. The 283 and 327 blocks are virtually identical. The motor mounts from your 283 will work on the 327, although I recommend replacing them. I just replaced my 283 with a 350 out of a '77 Caprice Classic and it fit like a glove.

[thinkgreen]

When you say "replace the mounts" are you meaning actually cut the original mounting points off the frame and re-weld new ones or are you talking about replacing the actual rubber (or what-ever their made out of) mounts?

[Scooter3]

I would guess he means replace the rubber, they consist of a square rubber "shock" and a metal plate on top of it. It has a bolt up under the part that is rivited to the frame, take it out and the rubber will come off. Its just a good thing to do since rubber dry rots and you already have the engine out.

[thinkgreen]

Good deal. That makes sense then. I appreciate the feedback.

[Bob]

All Small block Chevy's are the same size. The problem with the 60-66 is they are tight to the firewall. We use 67-71 frames and the mounts are forward about 2" further allowing plenty of clearance. Also on the 60-66 you can move the mounts up, you just have to drill 1 hole.

[456chevytrucks]

Engine perches attach to the top flange of the frame rail and the front cross member...motor mounts are the vulcanized rubber pieces that secure the block to the engine perches. Motor mounts are readily available and resonably priced and should be replaced when doing any engine swap.

I recently swapped a 283 for a 327 in my '66 Chevy C20 Custom Camper with zero issues. This is a plug-n-play swap. Good luck with your project.

[chvlvr63]

motor was already removed when i got my 63 c10. think it was a 283, not sure. I have a 305 to put in it. looks like i'll have to modify the mounts. any tips?

[del]

The 305 (73 and newer) uses different mounts, but where the mount bolts to the block is the same (55-8?). So unbolt the newer style mounts, and bolt the earlier style on. Keep your current 283 exhaust manifolds (headers), the older style mounts have issues with the newer exhaust manifolds.

hope this helps del

[chvlvr63]

yeah ok. easy. thanks for the help.

[meanmadmaxwell]

I put a 350 in my 64 c10. I just purchased a set of 1964 283 v8 mounts from a local parts store and left the engine perches alone. It is extremely close to the firewall. The Distributor just barely slides in and I don't think you could take the transmission out without also unbolting and sliding the engine forward. It might be a good idea to move the perches forward two inches.

When I bought the truck it had an old Buick in it and the owner before me already had holes drilled for the perches two inches forward. When I tried to set my 350 SB in that way the perches were to close together because the frame rails are not parallel (they angle slightly towards each other). Instead of slotting the holes or drilling new ones I just moved the perches back to the stock position.

[chasedimarco19]

I have a 64 c10 Custom. I'm new to the vehicle and not sure on what all is original and not. It has a 350 crate motor which I know is not stock. It has an HEI distributor in it and has a different ignition switch in it. I'm not worried about the gauges working right now. So with that being said, what wires are needed from the ignition switch to the cilinoid on the starter and from the starter to the distributor? My starter mounts to the bell housing of the tranny. there are 3 terminals on it. r b and s. my wires are not diagram colored. What I've been doing lately is using a test light to see which wires are hot when I turn the key, what terminal does that wire go on? And will that one wire spit out the armature in the starter or is there another wire that activates the armature? And from which terminal do I need the distributor to be linked to? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. I don't know if I'm on the right track or not lol

[eddy63]

Hey guys what's up I'm new here but dang do I need assistance. I have a '63 c10 fleetside. I'm pulling the straight 6 and trans (running and for sale) and putting a sbc 350 with a t5 world class trans.ok so do motor mounts line up on the 350 swap? I have a 78 scottsdale as donor and would like to use the power steering and brake boost...any help would be appreciated