I have a 66 stepside I'm restoring and I have run into a problem with the right side. I replaced the outer floor, foot well,and cab corner. When I got ready to install the rocker I have no clearance between it and the bottom of the door. I have measured and scratched my head and cannot figure out what is wrong. I did the left side and everything looks good. I thought maybe the cab dropped and the roof was closer to the floor pan but after measuring everything I can think of there seems to be no difference in either side. The parts are from LMC. I haven't been very pleased with the fit of anything except the footwells. Any ideas ?
Post by twistedgeartim on Mar 29, 2010 5:40:48 GMT -7
i hate to tell ya, but from what little i know about replacement parts..... be VERY careful, as a lot of them are made overseas and no quality control as we know it here. the parts probably were made wrong to begin with, meaning you'll have to fabricate the correct panel yourself.
Gawd..... i sure hope momma dont find my parts receipts!!!
Well I hate to throw mud in your face but, you should have put the rocker in first. Everything aligns off the rocker. If the rocker is out of alignment your gonna have an extremely difficult time getting the door and the fender corner to line up with rest of your truck. Also...I have had alot of difficulty with LMC's patch panels. The rockers are actually bigger then the stock ones and the only thing right with the floor boards are the placement of the cab mount bolt. The cab corners are not right either. OH and if you do get this all to work and you used the big main floor board patch panel do NOT get the inner rocker panel..it is made to the floor board panel.
How do I know so much about these trucks?? I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
I also have the rockers and pillars and floor pan sections and the kicks to do I was going to weld a piece of tube metal across the door opening, so when I cut out the rockers ai'm hoping to keep the shape of the cab?. I'm also taking the cab off so I can lay it down for better access I also have to replace the braces. Im using a cheap HF welder, Im thinking on running a 220 in the garage and buy a miller welder. Or just pay someone but whats the fun in that! any help would be great Thanks Jeff
Last Edit: Apr 9, 2010 17:17:25 GMT -7 by srvblues
From my little experience this is how I would do the job. Take good pictures of the fit of everything. When you go back together you will be asking yourself was this like this before ? Remove the rocker and install the new floorpans first. Tack only ! Then tack in the new A-pillar. Tack in the new footwell. Check the fit of the rocker. I installed mine with self tapping screws temporarily. When you cut out the old cab corner leave at least 1" of old metal all the way around. If your corners are not very bad only replace the rusted area,not the whole thing.
lostsheep: Glad to be on the forum.
Aug 14, 2013 11:38:28 GMT -7
flatback74: Glad to find this forum. I have a 1966 short box , with coils... I started the rebuild back when I was in high school ( like 18 years ago ) . Its half done now, with sand blasted frame, repainted. and body parts ,fenders and interior all removed painted
Aug 23, 2013 15:27:21 GMT -7
flatback74: My question: it seems the general consensus from this thread is that its easier by far to keep these trucks on their frames or swap to suburban frame 73-87 because of the hump. Is this correct?
Aug 23, 2013 15:28:46 GMT -7
flatback74: Im asking here because I see a lot of different answers on the web... Im looking for something to drive with, not a show vehicle, and I can weld, but do not want lots of work or a mega project
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patrick: Hi I'm a new member. I've owned my 60 for 15 years now. Bought it from "back yard body shop" I've kept her running, now it's time to strip her down and do her justice. How do I know if I have an Apache?
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scotty: Hey all,just got on board.Hopefully the info and insights I get will help me get further into the world of old trucks.
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